Across the Border

In part four of our vineyard blog series, Ross Wise MW takes us across the border to Washington and Oregon to explore the exceptional vineyards we’ve partnered with for the unprecedented 2024 vintage. 

We have an unwavering commitment to the unique terroir of the South Okanagan. We’re past talking about its potential. Our community of local wineries is producing wines that undoubtedly compete on the world stage. This didn’t happen overnight – we owe a debt of gratitude to the pioneers in our industry who helped pave the way.

Now it is our responsibility to continue to move the industry forward. This ethos is guiding the significant changes we’re making as we replant our estate vineyards. As I explained in our inaugural blog post, the plan was to complete this work over several years. The extreme cold events over the last two winters accelerated the timeline. It’s the right path forward for the long term, but it leaves us with little fruit for the next three years as we await the first crop. 

In the interim, we will be sourcing fruit from Washington and Oregon. We explored numerous scenarios before deciding that this is the best path forward. Many like-minded wineries came to the same conclusion. 

We had boots on the ground before we even made this decision. It was critical to find the right growers with whom to partner. For us, it’s about more than just exceptional terroir. It’s about honouring the winegrowing philosophy of Black Hills, ensuring the vineyards are meticulously farmed to our standards and the wines are true to who we are.

That search took us throughout Washington and Oregon as we explored different AVAs and sub-regions. We walked vineyard rows, tasted broadly, asked questions, and soaked up as much knowledge as we could. Ultimately, we honed in on four regions.

Chehalem Mountains – We were looking for cooler areas from which to source Chardonnay, much like we do in the Okanagan. That took us to Oregon’s Willamette Valley, where Chardonnay is overtaking Pinot Gris as its most important white grape variety. Chehalem Mountains is located to the north of the Willamette, with some of the highest elevation plantings in the valley. The result is cooler sites naturally suited to both sparkling wine and our restrained, mineral-driven style of Chardonnay.

Horse Heaven Hills – Falling roughly between the Willamette Valley and Walla Walla, just across the Columbia River, Horse Heaven Hills is one of the warmest AVAs in Washington state. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot may be the most planted varieties, but we were especially excited by Tempranillo and Rhône whites like Roussanne and Viognier. Horse Heaven Hills covers a large swath of land, and there can be significant variation between its vineyards. Our fruit comes from a higher elevation parcel within the AVA, well-suited to retaining freshness during the long, warm summer days.

The Rocks District – If you hadn’t just driven through miles of wheat fields, you would think you’re in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The vineyards are exceptionally rocky, strewn with basalt cobblestones that radiate heat late into the evening. It has earned its reputation for exceptional Syrah. It’s unlike any other region, both intensely meaty and earthy, with rugged black fruits. We are equally as impressed by the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, which are just as mineral.

Walla Walla – The Rocks District may be part of Walla Walla, but wines from the broader AVA feel a world apart. Again, Syrah and Bordeaux varieties are the star. The Syrah here is more Okanagan-like in character, with lush dark fruit that’s balanced by peppery spice and floral perfume. We are also sourcing Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec from throughout Walla Walla, which is classically structured but packed with dense, ripe fruit.

We are proud of the growers we are working with in each region. As a winemaker, it’s an exciting opportunity to work with exceptional new terroirs. Now that harvest is underway, it means a lot of driving from vineyard to vineyard. But we believe precisely sourcing each grape variety from where it grows best, no matter the effort, stays true to the vision we’ve upheld since the winery was founded.

We can’t wait to share these wines with you as we await our next chapter in the Okanagan.